Reelfoot Lake State Resort Park

Reelfoot Lake State Resort Park (www.tnstateparks.com, 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. daily) is the most unusual lake in Tennessee, well worth a detour to see. The lake extends 14 miles long and five miles wide and covers 15,000 acres. Sometimes the edge of the lake merges into wetlands and is difficult to discern. A relic of the New Madrid earthquake, Reelfoot Lake averages 5.2 feet in depth, and the deepest place in the lake is only 18 feet deep. The lake contains thousands of cypress trees with knobby "knees" that stick out of the water and tangled roots that intertwine under the water.

"Reelfoot," according to Indian legend, was the name of a local chief who abducted a local Indian maiden, thus causing the earthquake, which, the legend adds, swallowed up the chief's entire tribe. It hardly seems fair.

The shallow water, the trees, and the climate have conspired to create some of the best fishing in the country. Among the 57 species of fish that live here are largemouth bass, bream, and crappie--the latter so numerous that they are commercially fished with nets. During peak fishing season, which runs April through October, the park and surrounding towns fill with anglers.

Bird-watchers are also attracted, for more than 250 species of birds visit the lake during the course of a year. Heading the list of birds to see are bald eagles, which winter in the park until mid-March. The harder the winters farther north, the more eagles show up at Reelfoot Lake, but usually at least 100 are on hand. The park has set up extensive programs to help visitors see the magnificent birds. The best place to get oriented is the visitors center, which is on the southwestern end of the lake.

Eagle tours take place December through March. Buses leave the visitors center at 10 a.m. for the two-hour tours, which cost $3 per visitor. Pontoon boat cruises begin in May and end October 1. These last one to three hours and cost $9. Reelfoot Lake is the only state park with its own airstrip.

The town of Tiptonville and various landowners got to Reelfoot Lake before the park was created, so the place is a mixture of private and public land. This can be a bit disconcerting for those accustomed to entering a park gate and leaving the commercial world behind.